Day 13 - Monday, July 6 - Camp 2, Day 1

So here's the deal with roosters.

On TV they crow with the dawn. You know the typical scene: the sun is rising in the countryside and the rooster crows and everyone wakes up. This is pretty accurate. Roosters do crow at sunrise.

What the television leaves out is that the roosters don't STOP crowing all day. They just keep going on and on and on.

This wasn't terribly noticable at the school, but I learned it well because I spent this day home sick.

I mentioned at the end of the Sunday entry that I'd been battling a fever all day, and despite knocking myself out with hardcore Tylenol at 5:30 the night before, I was still sick the next morning. I knew that I had two options: stay home and rest, miss the first day where there was no heavy lecturing, and hopefully recover OR I could force myself to go, be miserable, and stay sick for the rest of the week, including the days that I have some pretty heavy lectures.

People may call me wimpy, but I stayed home, and I don't regret it for a second. The goal was to rest all day and I did somewhat succeed in this, but in their worry about me my teammates warned some of the people at IOC that I was home sick. They wanted people just to check in on me to make sure I didn't worse, and I'm sure they didn't intend on making me the local sideshow, but that was the end result. The cook that we'd befriended, Ska, checked on me about five times, sometimes bringing new people with her. Zenzele came in, woke me from a nap, asked why I was still in bed and looked through pictures on my camera. He knows Alex and Rebecca and knew the group last year and was a pretty nice guy, but like many of the people in Ingwavuma he doesn't seem to get subtle hints to go away.

Finally around 2 I was feeling well enough to get dressed and go outside for a time. I talked with some of the kids who were hanging around IOC, mainly Ska's niece and son. Her niece was a very sweet girl who's probably 11 or 12 and spoke pretty decent English. She seemed really eager to talk to a native English speaker and improve her own English. I was only too happy to oblige; I love talking. Ska's son was almost 5 years old and reminded me a bit of my own brother in that he was very much about bugging the people around him.

The rest of the team came back around 4 or so and were happy to see me up and about and feeling much better. We did a little planning for the next day and I heard stories about the kids at camp. There were apparently about 39 of them and they were much older and more attentive, so I set to work making my HIV and Immune System lectures a bit more advanced. This took me until “late” (probably only 8:30), and I crashed as soon as I was finished.

Day 12 - Sunday, June 5th - Hluhluwe

So, Sunday dawned dark and early. We were up around 5:30 to catch our 6:00 game drive, which meant we started out on the drive in full dark. At first this meant a pretty uneventful drive, but we did manage to see two spotted hyenas, so I'm sure not complaining. They're relatively rare.

Once it lightened up and we were able to see by more than headlights we saw a bit more. Lots of herbivores, like the day before. Elephants at a distance, rhinos pretty close (though behind some photo-ruining foliage), giraffes by the dozen. Even a few baby zebras! There were also some of the stranger animals like nyalas that nobody really knows about (basically, larger impala types). The real feature of the drive ended up being birds. We saw a wide variety of bush chickens and hawk type birds and the like. I wish beyond anything else that I'd had binoculars.

After the drive we threw in some laundry and grabbed a quick (but delicious) lunch out on the restaurant's patio, bought some more souvenirs, finished our laundry, and it was time to leave. Laundry sounds pretty boring, but the time it took to do that meant that we were hanging around our huts to see the little reddish deer thing that came up to graze outside them and tons of monkeys! I got some fantastic up-close pictures of monkeys. Vervets, I believe they were.

After this we started driving home, taking the long way through Umfolozi, which is the other half of the park. I think we saw some wildebeest and baboons, but I napped. It ended up getting us a little lost and we took a bit longer than expected to get home, but again, I napped. I was pretty much in and out of consciousness the whole way home.

This was mainly because of the fever that I'd been running all day. Granted, we didn't have thermometers to check if I'm right about that, but I know what a fever feels like. It made the game drive a little uncomfortable, but I was gone by the time we made it back to Ingwavuma. I ducked out of planning for camp 2 in order to take some hard core nighttime Tylenol (courtesy of the very generous Marilee) and pass out in my bed at about 5:30.

So it wasn't the best end to the weekend, but overall it was a fantastic trip and a wonderful location and Jessy and I are already planning on having our weddings at Hluhluwe.

Day 11 - Saturday, July 4 - Hluhluwe!

I'm writing this a few days after the fact, because I haven't really been up to it since then. Hopefully I'll be able to recount enough.

Saturday morning we packed up nice and early and headed out to Hluhluwe. If you're sitting at home and trying to pronounce that word, you can just stop, because I guarantee you won't get it. The “hl” morpheme here is one that we don't have in English. It sounds kind of like “sh”, but it's pronounced out the side of the mouth. I've been corrected on it no less than a million times since I've been here, although I think I'm getting better.

Anyway, we drove to Hluhluwe with a quick stop just outside Mkuze for some gas and food. Let me say, fast food has never been so delicious. I'm not sure what to classify “Wimpy's”... it was kind of like a George Webbs or Perkins? In any case, we ate pretty well and for very cheap and stole all their sugar packets for use back at IOC. The waitress actually caught us at this and asked us later “where's all the sugar?” to which we stuttered and looked around nervously until she smiled with a big “I'm kidding!” Yes, we are continually jokes here.

We got to Hluhluwe a bit after noon, I think. Once through the main gate we were immediately accosted by a water buffalo, the first of the Big Five on this trip (technically, we'd seen lions at the Lion Park in Johannesburg). For those of you who didn't grow up addicted to Kratt's Creatures, the “Big Five” are lion, leopard, elephant, rhinocerous, and water buffalo. They are supposedly the Need-To-See animals in Africa, although if I had to make a list I'd probably put the cheetah somewhere on there. Giraffe also. To be honest, Africa just has too many awesome animals.

Anyway, back to the buffalo. It was probably an old male, since it was on its own. The thing let us get really close to it. We tried to get around it, but it started moving towards us and in the shortest game of chicken ever, despite us being in a 2-ton car, we backed off. It might be just like a big cow, but it was impressive none the less. Eventually it let us move on.

After that there was a bit of time to admire the scnery. A lot of Africa has been absorbed by its version of suburban sprawl; houses or shacks spread far apart over large areas. The Ingwavuma area is like this. Hluhluwe, because it's a preserve, is just a huge area nearly devoid of humans. It is slightly mountainous and incredibly gorgeous and probably more how I imagined Africa looking from all the nature shows on television.

Then we saw a giraffe. I'd seen one closer at the Lion Park, but it was nice to see one in its “natural” habitat. We stopped at a lookout near a watering hole and saw at a distance an entire troop of babboons and some impala and some zebra. Also, I think a nyala. I'll have to check my pictures later.

After this was some more scenery admiring and then HOLY CRAP A ZEBRA. They were right in the middle of the road. We got some fantastic pictures of them, when they'd look up from their grazing. They're such interesting animals, and it's amazing that the black-on-white scheme could work for them, but it really does.

Another lookout point came up and we got out of the car only to see ELEPHANTS! They were across from us, on the next hill/mountain, and there were about fourteen of them total. Since our tour guide later on said that the bull (male) elephants travel alone, these must have been females and their young. Cross off another on our list of the Big Five.

We watched them for a while because they were honestly pretty fascinating. I'm sure my pictures don't do them justice. We could hear them eating in the distance, which by the sound of it meant tearing down some trees.

After this was more edge of your seat driving and then a hairpin turn and we nearly crashed into zebras! Which were pretty much the same as the last time we'd seen them, but hey, it's awesome anyway!

So eventually we made our way to Hilltop Camp for the night. We signed up for a game drive for the next morning, for dinner, and then we headed to our rooms. We actually had reserved two seperate huts called “rondavels”, which are round huts. They were certainly not huts in the traditional sense; they were definitely hotel rooms inside. They had a sink and mini fridge and holy crap the nicest beds we'd slept in in a week. Fantastic.

We went out for another quick drive but really only saw a warthog. You're not supposed to drive around in the park after dark and we had dinner reservations besides, so we headed back. Which meant that when we got back we took SHOWERS.

Dude. Ingwavuma is great, but it is not known for reliable water. We've had our water cut off more than we've had it on, and hot water is just a myth. So for us to take showers with hot water, even if the showers were in a communal bathroom... we were really in heaven. For the first time in a while I felt fully human. I got “dolled up”, which basically meant putting on clean clothes and some eyeliner. Heh. It was wonderful. Heck, they even had mirrors, and I pretty much hadn't seen myself in a week.

Dinner was fantastic. It was buffet style and we all ate until we burst. We also drank some pretty delicious mixed drinks; Jessy and Machiko had “Sex in the Bush” and I had a “Hilltop Sunrise”. We were also right by the windows, so we saw a genet, which is a type of wild cat that's nocturnal and pretty shy. The dessert menu was as fantastic as the rest of the food, and afterwards we enjoyed a can of South African beer. Castle, I think it was.

So by then we were beat and basically just headed back to bed and crashed for the night. For all of those of you in Wisconsin you're probably not to impressed by my stories about comfortable beds and hot showers, but you really don't appreciate this stuff until it's REALLY gone.

Day 10 - Friday, July 3 - Camp 1, Day 4

Last day of Camp 1!

Today was a pretty fun day. We covered Sexually Transmitted Infections, which aren't necessarily very fun, but we got through it pretty fast. We talked about having an STI makes you up to ten times more likely to contrat HIV.

After this we split up the kids again by gender, except taking all of the kids under twelve out. So first we had girls twelve and up while the boys and young'uns went outside. Then it was time for me and Jessy to do the... CONDOM DEMONSTRATION!

I don't know how we two were roped into doing that, but we were. For this purpose AYO had purchased and given us five dildos. They were the glow in the dark kind! The reason for it being so explicit is that another group a while back had tried to do the condom demonstration on their thumbs and the kids didn't really get that thumb = penis, so... anyway, there's really nothing lost in translation when you whip out five glow-in-the-dark dildos.

The girls were shy to start, but seemed to have a little fun. There was definitely a lot of giggling, but they all seemed to understand. We discussed how if you start putting a condom on backwards you have to throw it away, since some potentially infectious fluids would be on the outside once you flip it around. Considering my high school didn't offer a condom demonstration even in my senior health class, I think these kids are getting a great opportunity.

So every girl got the opportunity to try and then we went through some sex negotiation where Jessy and I acted out some things they may hear people say about sex (“everyone is doing it!”) and things they can say in response (“no, everyone is not doing it. Some people even pretend to be sexually active to impress their friends.”)

Next we got the guys in. They were similarly shy to start out with, but opened up pretty quickly as well. I think it helped how matter-of-fact me and Jessy were, not flinching when doing the demonstration or showing any shame. Mostly these kids need to understand that condoms are normal and safe and healthy and that they shouldn't be ashamed of using them.

After the negotiations and stuff we made power dolls with the kids, which they really enjoyed and I was glad for it. If you don't know what that is, it's where they write a message to themselves on a half sheet of paper and then crumple it into a ball. This will become the head. They wrap it in a 12' x 12' square of fabric. Using just some yarn, it becomes a little doll. I'll have some pictures of them later, after I return.

I spent the time organizing the stuff for the giveaway at the end. By the time the power dolls were done we were ready to eat. Each kid came in and got a sparkly pencil and some stickers and a TY beanie baby. Some of them were kind of puzzled at them, since I'm sure they aren't used to a lot of the North American wildlife that they take some inspiration from. For instance, nobody was listening to us tell them that the beaver wasn't some kind of dog. Heh.

After camp we headed home to bust out the wine. Or, rather, we ate some dinner, waited for Eugene and Vusi (two of our translators) to show up, and then we busted out the wine. We had a bottle of red and white and although I can't remember the exact brand, I know they were both from South Africa. They were pretty delicious. We played cards. We learned a South African card game, Casino, and we taught Eugene and Vusi Circle of Death. By this point it was just the two of them and Jessy and I and we figured that they should learn some authentic American college student past times. They seemed to like the game, and it helped us finish out our wine (not that we needed the help!)

After that it was definitely time for a little dancing, but mostly time for bed. I was only too happy to crash.

Day 9 - Thursday, July 2 - Camp 1, Day 3

More than halfway through the first camp! Today was the first day that we had two translators, as we added Vusi to the mix. He's a pretty great guy, and having three really helped us along. It also seemed to help them from being worn out.

We started off with just asking what they remembered from the previous day, which was surprisingly quite a lot. We collect their journals, where they take notes if they do take notes, at the end of every day and since we hadn't passed them out everything they told us was stuff they remembered. We were very impressed.

At this point we split them up so that half of the students worked on a page in their Hero Books while half went outside to try out the drunk goggles. Those things are fuuuuun. They're this huge pair of goggles that warps everything you see so that things are way closer or farther away than you think. They do a good job of making you dizzy and disorientated. The kids were hilarious in them and had a great time trying them on.

After that we finished up some lecture on drugs, covering Marijuana and a few others. Then it was my turn to try and teach them about HIV prevention, testing, and treatment. I did the first two relatively quickly and the students seemed to be getting just a little antsy, which we'd planned for.

After testing we decided to play a game with them. We handed every kid a paper bag. Inside the bags each had seven pieces of candy and an index card. Some had instructions on their index card and if they did, they had to follow the instructions. Otherwise, they had to try to share the candy with each other. Now, some gets were “abastainers” and were told not to share their candy with anyone. A few were called up in front of the other as monogamous couples, and only shared with their partner. Still others just had a C or an IC on their bag. Most of the kids had red candy, with a select few having green.

You see where this is going?

Yes, after the game, we asked everyone with a green candy in their bag to stand up. All of these people “got HIV”. Some people had stars on their bags and these people started with HIV. Those with C or IC got to sit down because they “used a condom”, so they were safe... EXCEPT those with the IC used the condom INCORRECTLY, so they did in fact get HIV (we're tricky). It was a fun little activity and the kids seemed to enjoy it.

After that was the treatment lecture and then we split the kids up into boys and girls. Machiko and I took the boys outside for a journal question and games and face painting while the girls got the lecture on rape. I wasn't there for the rape lecture, but I hear it went pretty well. It's important to stress to these kids that if they are raped, it isn't their fault (which is a common idea here).

There was a break for lunch in the middle and then we switched it up. The girls were very excited to get their faces painted and I guess the guys were more forthcoming than expected in their rape lecture.

By the time we were done with this we'd covered a lot of pretty heavy information, so we released the kids and went home.

That night we joined the little kids staying at IOC for some fun and dancing and games. They'd found a CD player and were playing some local music. We learned a dance that is kind of like a modified electric slide and I taught one heartbreakingly adorable little boy how to play “hand-clapping games”. His name was Siyabonga and as soon as I gave him that little individual attention he was attached to me for the rest of the time he was there.

Day 8 - Wednesday, July 1 - Camp 1, Day 2

I'm actually writing this entry days later, since I didn't have enough time Wednesday night to write about the day.

Wednesday went much better than the first day. We planned differently, more flexibly, and didn't forget any supplies. The drive there was just as crazy and bumpy, but Thembi seems to know the roads pretty well. Again, we had to run to the store before heading to school so that we could pick up bread for their brunches. They should be breakfasts, but since they happen on South Africa time (plus 45 minutes or more), they're more like brunches.

We started the day by just talking to the kids. I can't specifically remember everything we did, because I stepped out to work on my lectures. I do remember my two lectures; I covered the immune system and HIV.

To be honest, I kind of loved talking about the immune system with them. I had to simplify it a lot for them; I only talked about white blood cells and antibodies, and even then only in the most basic sense. But at least I know that my information was pretty accurate, and wasn't made incorrect by my simplifying it. With how stressful my classes can be, it's nice to kind of affirm that at its core, I really do enjoy my area of study.

Although we did schedule much better this day, we actually had the opposite problem; we weren't able to get through everything. We did the Immune System and risky behaviors (sex, coming in contact with infected fluids, etc) and HIV and then half of our drugs and alcohol material (alcohol, cocaine, and heroin) before we had to let the kids go. I brought some water along and was able to eat some of the prepared food, so I wasn't nearly as exhausted by the day, despite delivering two pretty heavy letures.

We're still riding with Thembi and the translators (Hlengiwe and Eugene), but we have a shiny new car chilling in the IOC “parking lot” (which is a parking lot in only the vaguest sense of the words). As it turns out, the owners of the guest house we stayed in in Joburg knew someone high up in Budget Rental's corporate structure, at least here in South Africa. He must have called in a favor because we got about ten apologies about our treatment when we blew the tire, leading us to not have to pay for the tire or the rim damage. They replaced our car, driving a new one probably four hours out to Ingwavuma (for those in Wisconsin, it's like someone driving a car into the middle of deep woods up north, down logging roads, from Milwaukee). All of the three cars that our group rented had two days taken off of the rental price. The car we have now is also larger and an automatic and we only have to pay for a small car to have it. Basically, we got incredibly lucky.

While we were eating dinner this night we noticed Eugene (one of our translators) hanging and working with the little orphans staying at IOC this week. They played the “teddy bear” game, which Eugene had also played with our kids. The game involves everyone standing in a circle with one in the middle, everyone singing and clapping: “My teddy bear, my teddy bear, I love my teddy bear... my teddy bear, my teddy bear, I love my teddy bear... Polish your shoe!” And on that last part the person in the middle pretends to polish the shoe of one kid. Then everyone sings “I love my teddy bear” and those two people hug and then switch, so that the kid who got their shoe “polished” is in the middle. Repeat ad nasueum.

After the kids were dismissed to their rooms and we were preparing for bed we heard them singing the song and it's pretty catchy, so we joined in and it turned into a full-on game. Keep in mind, these kids speak no English and we speak next to no Zulu, so the only thing we had between us was this game. In this way we also taught them the chicken dance and basically just played the teddy bear game for a very long time. The kids loved it, though. They are so adorable and precocious and just like “our kids” at camp, you can tell that they could do great things if given half the chance.

After that, though, we were completely wiped and crashed by about 9 or 10.

Day 7 - Tuesday, June 30th - Camp 1, Day 1

Wow.

Well, our first day is done, and that's an accomplishment in and of itself. It was an exercise in endurance and flexibility to rival any Olympic sport. Keep in mind, none of us have experience with teaching in any real capacity, and teaching in another language and in another culture is a huge obstacle.

Jessy and I (we're roomies for this part of the trip) woke up around 6:30 to the sound of honest-to-God roosters and children. Mostly children. I had underestimated the ability of children to be up at horribly early hours with enough energy to be laughing and running. I was similarly impressed by their commitment to playing... they were outside even though it's really freakin' cold in the morning.

So we physically got up around 7 and got ready to head out. Thembi, who was driving us, said that she'd be leaving around 8. To make a long story short, we left around 9... Africa time. Everything is plus or minus 45 minutes, and usually it's plus. So we arrived at the school at about 9:30 after stopping for loaves of bread (for breakfast for the kids). Considering our itinerary had said that breakfast would start the day at school at 8, we were somewhat behind schedule.

We'd anticipated having some time to warm up and get ready, but when we got there the kids were all there and ready to go, so we just jumped into the first activity. Basically we set up the camp, went over some goals, got some “community agreements” (listen when others talk, don't laugh, be respectful, etc), played a game to learn names and did a presurvey (of how much they think they know about the topics we'll be covering).

By the time we were done with ALL of that, only about... one hour had passed. Our thoughts upon realizing this: “Uh-oh”.

About here we decided to slow our pace a bit. Our next step was to do the first page in their “Hero Books”, but we quickly realized that due to some amazing oversight, we'd forgot all of the books that we'd spent an hour or more making the previous day. Oops! So we introduced the idea and had them all make covers for the books, and they'll get the books (with cover) tomorrow. Not a terrible setback.

After this we did another little game and then handed out journals. I suppose that I should mention how in love these kids are with their school supplies. I dunno if others agree with me, but I always loved school supply shopping. Every year I got new paper and pencils and markers and whatever else and no matter what it was, it was great. These kids clearly don't get that luxury, so when we handed out their little pencil cases and notebook for the journals... they were clearly really excited. The care they took in drawing and the joy they clearly got from using markers and colored pencils was so wonderful.

About this time (11 or 11:30) the breakfast sandwiches were done. Originally we'd been told not to start before breakfast was done, but since the day was mostly light-hearted activities we'd pressed on. We probably wouldn't do that another day because of the heavier material and because for some of these kids this might have been their first meal in a long time. Breakfast tomorrow might be their first meal since the lunch we provide the day before.

After the sandwiches were eaten it was nearing noon and we'd originally had lunch in this time slot. Ha. The women preparing the food started on lunch, which was going to take a good three hours. We're now thinking: “What are we going to do with this time?!”

So we moved to the trust hand activity. In that activity the students trace their hand and then write their name in the palm. The fingers they use to write names of people they trust. They also list their struggles and successes on the side. The exercise is supposed to help the kids visualize that they have people to turn to for help. It's a fun little activity and afterwards we put the hands up so kids could look around to see if other kids have similar problems (obviously, they often do). It worked pretty well, even if a few kids copied down the answers off our examples.

We did another journal question (What do you know about HIV/AIDS) and then had a discussion about that. The kids did seem to know quite a bit, especially that you should use gloves when handling blood, but I'm unsure of how well they understand WHY that is. I think a lot of the teaching here is done by a lot of copying down what is written and memorization. Hopefully I'll be able to better explain how HIV works to them. In any case, they didn't seem hesitant about participating here, although that may have been helped along by the stickers we gave them for doing so (they LOVED the stickers).

So then we did a little game about facts and myths about HIV, but it didn't get very far, so we abandoned it. Realizing that the kids were getting restless, the four of us were at the ends of our ropes, and that lunch would be happening pretty late, we dismissed the kids for games. We'd brought a soccer ball and frisbees and some clotheslines as jumpropes. I didn't really see the kids playing soccer (they seemed to be using it for basketball instead?) but I played frisbee with some kids the whole time. It was awesome because they had obviously never used a frisbee before, so they were even worse than me! I was looking like some pro. Unfortunately for me, the kids started getting the hang of it pretty quick, but I'm keeping up with them.

The jumpropes probably would have been fun to play with, but I'm gonna need to study how they do it a little more first. They have this weird style where the two spinners go really fast and the person jumping jumps for a few spins, but then catches the rope on their legs and the whole thing pauses. It's a weird start and stop action that looks pretty cool, but I'm not about to try my hand at it.

So after this was food, which was pretty well received. Chicken and rice and I don't know what else. I didn't really have anything aside from an apple and some juice, both of which I realized after having started that they were probably bad ideas. Generally when travelling to foreign countries you try to avoid fruit without hard shells (like apples) and the local water (which they put powder in to make the juice). Oh, well, I guess we'll see if I keep over!

We ended the day with some singing and dancing, courtesy of one of our translators, Eugene. That was another huge obstacle we faced... we'd been operating under the assumption that we'd have 4 translators. The day dawned and we had 2: Eugene and Hlengiwe. Granted, those two did a fantastic job and are simply wonderful people and great helps to us... but it pretty much eliminates our ability to break into smaller groups. We'd planned to have 4 small groups of kids, which each AYO volunteer would lead, along with a translator... but that idea had to be tossed. In any case, Eugene knew most of the kids already from teaching them English or something, so he knew how to keep them energized and entertained.

Okay, well, it's 10:00 PM here and I'm crashing hard. The end of our day was far less amusing; we drove home to Eugene and Hlengiwe trying to out sing each other, drove to the store for some last minute food supplies, got our car exchanged (I'll try to get to that story tomorrow), ate a scrumptious dinner of tuna sandwiches, rice, and oranges, prepared a far more flexible lesson plan for tomorrow, and that brings me to here. Now, if you'll excuse me, I have to get some sleep.

Day 6 - Monday, June 29th - Camp Prep.

Today was our first full day in Ingwavuma! Or, as it should probably be spelled, iNgwavuma. But I'm going to be a terrible American and spell it like it is on the signs.

We woke up early...ish: 7:30. Normally I'd say that 7:30 is very early for me, but since we probably went to bed around 7:00 last night, I suppose I got enough sleep.

Our first stop this morning was to meet with some of the people from Ingwavuma Orphan Care, where we're staying. We actually briefly met a whole lot of people, since it's a pretty busy place, but mostly we talked to Vee and Thembi. We learned a bit more about IOC, including that they employ about 104 people. This was pretty amazing, considering their “offices” were maybe half the size of my house all total. But then you think that they help about 1800 people in the area with chronic illnesses and another 3000 orphans and the 104 employees doesn't seem like nearly enough.

After that talk and being introduced to a parade of new faces we headed off towards the supermarket. Not wanting to risk our shiny new car on the hazardous dirt driveway of IOC, or the pothole infested roads, we decided to hoof it. The walk was probably about 2 kilometers, but they had hills to rival Madison's worst. We are up in the mountains, after all.

We did a bit of shopping, which was also pretty interesting. The market was well stocked, but most of the brands and items were unfamiliar. We got the basics—ramen, bread, peanut butter, etc. As we loaded our backpacks up we were kind of wishing for the car, but the walk back seemed much quicker. There was also some gorgeous scenery along the way and everyone we saw was very friendly. We tried out some of our limited Zulu and it seemed to please the locals, but about half of them seemed to know English and all of them laughed at was was probably a massacre of their language's pronunciation and grammar.

We got back and made some lunch (ramen with mixed vegetables added in for flavor—delicious after not having eaten a meal for nearly a day). We had another short talk with Thembi, but spent most of the afternoon trying to prepare for our first camp tomorrow. We hammered out a rough schedule and made some posters and name tags for the kids. That was one interesting fact: we'd come here under the impression that we'd have 30 kids for each camp, but there are now nearly 50 each week. While it's wonderful that we're reaching about 40 more kids, we've been trying to work out how to stretch our supplies to account for the increase. It'll be a challenge, but we're certainly getting used to dealing with challenges, and this is a pretty nice one overall.

We also got to meet some of the orphans who are staying here. I don't know exactly why they're here now other than they've been doing some kind of work in a nearby building. I am fairly sure that IOC doesn't actually house any orphans full-time; most orphans in the area live in foster care. For whatever reason, we have fourteen or fifteen young kids (6 to 8 years old?) staying in the rooms next to us. They must have had some free time around 2:00 today when we were talking through our schedule and we got some looks from them. Jessy brought out her camera to take a picture of them (they're adorable!) and it was over after that. They were all so excited to see the camera and the pictures of themselves. A few of them were quite the little flirts, striking poses and stuff for us.

As cute as the kids were, I expect that staying in rooms next to a dozen 8 year olds is going to be an experience.

As it got dark we ate some dinner, which consisted of a slightly more healthy tuna sandwich, orange, and some minestrone soup that wasn't a very good mix or something. By the time we were done eating it was dark enough that we needed flashlights to walk the hundred feet from the kitchen to our rooms. I'm excited to look at the stars one of these nights... I expect they'll be amazing.

That was pretty much our whole day. Hopefully tomorrow's entry will be slightly more exciting. Tomorrow: Camp 1, Day 1!

Day 5 - June 28th - Drive to Ingwavuma

From here on out the posts will be slightly behind the actual days they occured on. I'll try to keep up the one post-one day standard, but I'm pretty busy. Hopefully the quality of the blog doesn't suffer for it!

Sunday, June 28^th:

Today was the Drive to Ingwavuma. Yes, that definitely deserves the capital letters.

For those who are not aware, South Africa is quite a large country. I'll look up the exact statistics when I have time, but take my word for this: South Africa is huge. We started out from Johannesburg at 8 in the morning and with only one brief stop barely made it into Ingwavuma by 5. Nine hours is a long drive.

So we got up early and left a little bit later than expected, but it was worth the wait for the breakfast our “host family” packed for us. The couple that owned the guest house we stayed in was probably one of the highlights of this trip. From breakfast to giving us advice to negotiating at the car rental place to providing some much needed Jerepigo after the flat tire, they certainly went above and beyond their call of duty.

So as I mentioned, we started off at 8 and managed to navigate our way out of Johannesburg with no trouble at all, which is not an easy feat between all the robots (stoplights), crazy drivers, and narrow streets. The initial drive was just long stretches of beautiful scenery broken up about once an hour with towns. I jotted down some quick thoughts in my notebook as we passed through them:

Leandra: pretty big shanty town coming in to it, pretty sketchy overall. Confusing turns with little signage. Boo, Leandra.

Secunda: didn't even notice that we'd passed it, which is good because it means N17 (the highway) didn't have to wind through it.

Bethal: Confusing, pretty sketchy, ended up in the hospital parking lot after a wrong turn, but had a pretty nice church. KFC count: 1

Ermelo: pretty nice, good roads, could have used a few less turns to find our new highway (N2). Turning while driving on the left side is extra confusing! KFC count: 2.

Piet Retief: Nice town! Stopped for gas and food, was able to find the tiniest can of Mountain Dew ever, which was glorious. The car parked next to us had a whole bunch of raw meat in the back. Was smiled at a lot as they pumped our gas. If you want a plastic bag for the items you buy in the gas station it was an extra R0.70. KFC count: 2.

Pongola: had a market called the JUNK market, which, as Marilee said, is truth in advertising if we've ever seen it. Roads became FAR better after here.

Jozini: Speed bump! And another speed bump! Garbage in the streets, but KFC count: 1.

You may have noticed the “KFC Counts”? That's because KFC here is like McDonald's or Walgreens back home—they're everywhere! Even in these little towns that barely have anything else, there's a KFC. Insane.

After Jozini was the real tricky part of the drive. We'd had construction and crazy drivers and narrow roads, but past Jozini (and especially past Bhambanana) there were POTHOLES. Yeah, if the Drive to Ingwavuma deserved those capital letters, than POTHOLES certainly deserve the full caps. These things could eat your car, and tried to eat ours a few times I'm pretty sure. There were times when we had to move into the other side of the road, times that we had to slow to a near crawl, and times when I was pretty sure there was no way through. Our contact at Ingwavuma Orphan Care, Nathi (pronounced Nah-tee), asked us before we came up, “You know what potholes are?” And of course we did... except we really didn't until that last 22 kilometers. Now, we definitely know what potholes are.

So now we're settled in our rooms (more on them later) and even though it's only 6:30, I think we're all about ready for bed.

Day 4 - June 27th

Another busy day in Johannesburg!

We started out pretty early with yet another wonderful breakfast at 8. That felt pretty good after last night's shenanigans. More pancakes and fruit and scrambled eggs and sausages and so much more that I can't name it all.

The morning after that actually started out pretty slow, as we tried to figure out what we were doing. After the previous night we were pretty apprehensive about our upcoming 8-hour drive out to rural South Africa with just the four of us (me, Marilee, Jessy, and Machiko). We had to discuss possible options, such as hiring a driver. Eventually, we just bullied Budget Rental into allowing Jessy to drive the car for just R300 (300 rand) extra. That's like, $40 or so. Yay! So we should be set on that front.

This sounds like it was a quick fix, but it was really an all-day ordeal, which eventually meant that Rebecca stayed behind to play phone tag. In the end it all worked out.

Meanwhile, we went out to the South African Lion Park where, for R100 (less than $20) we got to drive through a big reserve type thing where we saw zebras and springbok and other animals. We also saw cheetahs and hyenas behind some fences. The real treat, though, was when we entered the lion park. There were four enclosures, with four different prides. The only thing separating us from them was the car, and even though it was against the rules... we totally rolled the windows down. We were literally feet from these lions. I'll upload pictures after I'm back—they're fantastic.

After the driving part we entered the lion cub area where we saw a giraffe and ostrich pretty up-close, but then also went into a little enclosure where I got to PET a lion cub. I mean, that was awesome. Again, I have some simply amazing pictures.

After this we stopped by the inn before a few of us headed to the mall to get some last minute supplies—blankets, pens, candles, etc. The Ingwavuma team leaves early tomorrow, so we had to get some of that shopping in. Since the group was me, Jessy, and Machiko (Alex went to get some supplies), we couldn't resist the call of getting some clothes for dirt-cheap prices. So I got some jeans and two shirts for under $30. Rock on.

Now we're back to the inn for the night. We went over the driving directions for tomorrow and some information for the camps and now the seafood that people ordered.

So now I have to get going and try to prepare for the longest car ride of my life (not actually the longest, just made longer by South African roads being terrible, I'm sure) and also prepare to leave the best place I've ever stayed.

Since we're going out to middle-of-nowhere Ingwavuma tomorrow, I probably won't have internet for one or two more weeks, so there won't be any updates for a bit. I hope you keep checking back, though, because when I do have updates they are sure to be pretty fantastic!

Day 3 - Friday, June 26th

Well, today was certainly an adventure. We're back at the inn, all safe and sound, so no worries on that front

Because we got to the inn and to bed so late yesterday, we had a bit of a late start today. We ate breakfast around 9, quickly nicknaming it “the breakfast that never ends”. At first there was yogurt and and granola bread and jam and papaya juice and coffee. That really would've been enough for us, but then they set out some sausages and bacon and mushrooms, which made us pretty ecstatic. But THEN they set out the little pancakes and we were in heaven. After that, they served scrambled eggs. Amazing.

Alex and Rebecca showed up towards the end of breakfast with Liam, who was in good spirits even if they weren't. Apparently his nap in the car last night meant that he was up all night. The rest of us, on the other hand, slept like babies. The home we're staying in doesn't have any real heating system, but there were electric blankets and warm comforters, so I was set.

After breakfast we divided up the donations into two, for the two teams (DeWilt and Ingwavuma) and then drove out to DeWilt. We got a fantastic quote from Alex before we left as he was trying to explain our route: “So, we'll take a couple of lefts and a few rights and then take M5 out of town!” Thanks, Alex, very descriptive. We got another great quote off of a bumper sticker on the drive out: “Fat people are harder to kidnap.” Dunno what that was about, but I'll take their word for it.

When we got there the other team was able to check out the house they were going to stay in and then we got a guided tour around the park to see the animals. Animals we saw: cheetahs, African wild dogs, impalas, monkeys, a nyala (which is like a large goat-ish thing with horns), a meerkat, two honey badgers (one of which was an albino), numerous guinea pigs, and Egyptian vultures.

The cheetahs were amazing, of course, but I was surprised with how much I loved the African wild dogs. They are smart pack hunters, and so as we were driving through they were chasing our truck. They had members of the pack circling around the truck in what was clearly an organized fashion, all while yelping. They don't so much bark as squeak, and it sounds kind of like a tape rewinding. Strange.

The cheetahs were fantastic and we got pretty close to them, even if we didn't really stop in their enclosure because we had Liam in the car and apparently they thought he looked nice and bite-sized. We respectfully disagreed and kept driving.

The real trick was the drive back. Since it's winter here it gets dark just after 5, which is about when we started out. The roads up were terrifying on the way up, but that was nothing compared to them in the dark. On top of adjusting to driving on the other side of the road and on the other side of the car, the roads were extremely narrow and had pretty much no shoulder. On top of that, the sides of the road were often kind of steep and full of pot holes. Not to mention that people here drive more aggressively than anyone from Illinois, heh.

To make a somewhat long story shorter, my car blew a tire. If having a flat tire is nerve-wracking in America, it's ten times so on a dark road just outside Johannesburg. We'd been told by the rental company that they'd come fix any flats we got, but when we called them they definitely did not want to help. On top of all this, our car did not seem to have a jack in it.

So we had three cars in the dirt off the road and about 6 people aiding in changing the tire/holding flashlights. It was DARK. Luckily Alex's car had a jack in it. He and Jessy really rocked at changing out that tire; I was quite impressed. It was cold and dark and felt like it took forever, but we did it.

So now that we've made it home we are kicking back, ordering some chicken, drinking sherry and tea, and having a generally wonderful and calming time.

Day 1 and 2 - June 24th and 25th

Surprisingly, the fourteen-hour plane ride was not as bad as we had all expected. Really, tooling around the airports was more annoying for me. My day started out early, getting up and making sure everything was packed. We drove me down to O'Hare and I got there around eleven or so. Getting my ticket and through security was surprisingly quick, so I had plenty of time to sit around the airport before my 1:05 flight. That flight was nice and short and I slept through most of it.

The Atlanta airport was not as confusing as my mother had made it out to be. I found my next terminal pretty quick, meaning I had about four hours to kill before my 8:05 flight out. I spent some time on the free wireless and eating, but the real entertainment was trying to get some of my money changed into rand (South African currency). I tried the exchange counter nearest my terminal and after a half an hour wait was told “oh, no, the OTHER counter does rand”. So I walked across the terminal and waited another half an hour only to be told “no, the other person here does rand, and he's out to dinner.”

So at this point I got some food and sat around before returning an hour later and making my way through the line a third time, only to be told, “no, we sold out of rand”. Ugh.

After finally meeting up with everyone else in the terminal and getting my passport check and rescuing a little girl who got her knee stuck climbing between the seats (ever get your head stuck in a stair railing? It was kind of like that), we were finally ready to board the flight.

I just gotta say, I love big planes. Not only to they just feel roomier, but they tend to have nicer amenities. We didn't get sweet little beds like first class, but we all had individual TVs set into the seat in front of us, on which we could pick and watch anything that we wanted. I got in some How I Met Your Mother and a bit of Supernatural before they rebooted the system and I lost my audio. I used all my available IT skills to try and fix it (including going into some of the games, which froze the system and made it reboot), but nothing worked. Finally, I just went to sleep. I can't tell you how long I slept because I don't look at clocks while on planes (it helps with jet lag), but after a long and uncomfortable rest I tried my TV again and it worked! So I got to watch some Chuck, which is a pretty sweet show I've decided.

So finally, nearly fifteen hours after take off, we arrived in Johannesburg. The airport was somewhat of a let down, being that it was pretty similar to American airports and near everything was in English. We made our way through customs, got our luggage (everything accounted for!), changed our money at a better rate than they had in America (take THAT, Atlanta), and prepared to rent some cars.

Well, three hours and one stolen cell phone later, we were ready to leave the airport and finally be on our way to the inn. Luckily that was just a cheap cell phone we'd picked up for use in South Africa, and not one of our personal phones. Driving was definitely an adventure, but luckily it was late enough that there was very little traffic. I got to use my awesome navigating skills and my new map.

I do have to say, while we may have had headaches from the airport and car rental place, they were fixed by our lodging. We're staying in a sort of bed and breakfast (technically a “guest house”) with amazing rooms and a wonderful host couple, David and Gladys, and four adorable dachshunds. Really, this is one of the nicest places I've ever stayed in, and it was a welcome sight.

Thus ends our first six hours in South Africa... if they are any indication, we are in for an interesting trip!

We made it!

For all who are curious, we made it to South Africa. The flight was certainly long, but made easier by individual little TVs set into the seat in front of you. Those things are wonderful--you can watch whatever you want!

I slept for most of my flight. It was fitful and my neck hurts, but I'll live.

It's 6:30 here and we're just resting in the Johannesburg airport... everyone is safe and pretty happy (even Liam) and all of our luggage is accounted for! This is pretty much best-case scenario stuff right here. I'd love to blog more, but we're going to have to start moving soon.

An update -- at last!

Sorry about the delay in my posting; the closer the trip gets, the more busy I seem to become. A myriad of not-Africa-related things like three jobs, a mouse chewing through my moped's fuel line (thanks Dad for taking care of that fiasco!) and my laptop giving up the ghost meant that updating this had to take a temporary back seat.

It is now less than 10 days before we travel to Africa. We've had quite a few meetings since then, most notably learning about South African history and a few more activities for the kids.

I wanted to write this post mostly about our meeting yesterday, which consisted of a self-defence lesson through IMPACT Chicago, which I have decided is a simply awesome group. (Check out the video on their front page... we didn't learn all those moves, but the palmheel-to-the-face, knees-to-the-groin and head, and kicking from a prone position were all covered)

We started at 11. Our trainers were Naomi and Mark. Naomi was a very sweet woman who was also a social worker. Mark was this huge bouncer-type guy with a shaved head and goatee-beard thing going on. Both of them were exceedingly nice and fun and caring. Even though we learned a lot of "moves", we also spent a lot of time talking about what we were doing. Normally I'm not a huge fan of talking-about-feelings type activities, but it was definitely important here, and I appreciated it.

I was surprised at how emotional I did feel about the whole thing. As a girl, especially one as short as me, I get kind of talked down to about my physical strength all the time. Guys love pulling that "try to punch me in the arm as hard as you can" thing and if I do it I'm invariably told "haha, that didn't hurt at all!" So, while I never discounted myself as a fighter if I were to ever be attacked in any way (as I like to say, "I'm small, but I'm scrappy"), but I did seriously doubt my ability to defend myself effectively. I think subconsciously I figured that I'd fight, but that it probably wouldn't work.

Not so at all (as this course taught me). Just by giving us a few tools, a few pointers, I feel capable of defending myself now. If push comes to shove, I can hit hard enough to knock someone down, and hard enough again to knock someone out. I can use what strengths I do have to my advantage. Am I ever going to be able to take a guy on in a fistfight? Probably not. But I'm not looking for a fight; I just want to protect myself, and that I can do pretty confidently.

This epiphany came pretty early in the class after we realized that the knees-to-the-groin that we were delivering were literally knocking Mark (6-foot-something and 200+ pounds of muscle) off his feet. He didn't fall down after them, but that's only because of the extensive, specialized padded suit he wore. I think we'd all assume that his being lifted off his feet by our strikes was an act by him, but it wasn't. That realization, that I am able to do something like that, was suprisingly emotional. After a lifetime of being subtlely told that I couldn't take a guy in a fight, the truth hit like a freight train.

I will say this; if I ever have a daughter she will take one of IMPACT's core classes before going to college. I know that Marsha (DeWilt team) told me afterwards how relieved it made her to see her daughter, Jessy (who is going with me to Ingwavuma) be able to easily defend herself; I think my mom and dad would've been similiarly relieved if they could've seen me.

Another wonderful thing about this training was how much I think we as a team bonded over it. There's just something about cheering each other on and being cheered on in turn in such a charged, adrenaline-fueled atmosphere that brought us so much closer. I just can't express enough how amazing this class was. I hope that someday I have the opportunity to take one of their full, core classes, which takes a few weekends and over a full day of classtime. Unfortunately, but they're in Chicago and kind of expensive.

Yesterday, Drumming for Hope

Another busy weekend of various AYO-related outings.

Saturday - Potluck and Yesterday

Marilee (one of my Ingwavuma teammates) hosted a party Saturday night. It was partly to help her raise money for AYO; she had items for sale and some people donated money. The party was potluck, which works so well when you have that many adults--I am deficient in both ingredients, cookware, and knowledge to make real food for occasions like that.

We also watched a movie called Yesterday, which is about a woman (named Yesterday because her father thought that "things were always better yesterday") who finds out that she has HIV. She helps take care of her similarly sick husband (even though at first he doesn't believe her and even beats her for trying to warn him about the disease) and she also makes a goal not to die before her daughter attends her first day of school. It was an absolutely heartbreaking film and it was in Zulu (with English subtitles), which made it even more of a valuable learning experience. Unfortunately, but it kind of brought home how hard it will be to try to use the limited Zulu that I know.


Sunday - Drumming For Hope

AYO's fourth annual Drumming For Hope is also over. Marilee and I showed up at about 1:30 and stayed until nearly 8:30; from setting up to packing up. I also helped cover admission and later helped Marilee with selling craft items. We had the same items from Green Expo, along with some fantastic beaded jewelry and other things.

I also took a few minutes off from helping to participate in the drum circle, which was pretty neat. I don't have a terribly great sense of rhythm, but I tried to not seem too awkward. I also checked out the penguin we had visiting from Vilas Zoo, which is the closest I've ever come to a penguin. I bit on some of the silent auction items and got two gift certificates. After the drum circle there were some performances from different African drum and dance groups, which I caught some of and loved. All in all it was a pretty fun event and I had a great time helping out (even if I should've been doing homework)


Today - Even more Zulu!

Not much to say about my Zulu lesson today. We learned a few key phrases, such as please (either uxolo or ngicela) and spent a lot of time on trying to pin down proper phrasing. The use of plurals versus singular questions is confusing and I'd prefer not to offend anyone by using the wrong one. We also learned a lot of ways to refer to people. Boys under 7? Baba. Boys 7-15? Mfana. Boys over that age and I'll probably use Bhuti. Same with girls... Intombi and sisi. I also got a bit of practice in making some of the click consonants that they have, which they represent by x, q, or c. The x is a lateral click (using the side of your mouth), q is alveolar (like a clock ticking... tongue to the roof of your mouth, behind your teeth) and c is a dental click ("tsk-tsk", like when people disapprove of something). The clicks aren't terribly hard, but using them in the middle of a word takes some practice.

Green Expo and more Zulu lessons

Been a busy few days in AYO-land.

Green Expo

Saturday was the Isthmus's Green Expo, at which AYO had a booth. I helped out for the last half of the expo, having missed the beginning in favor of running Crazylegs (a local 5 mile run that starts at the state capitol and ends in Camp Randall stadium) because apparently I'm a masochist. Once I got there my job was basically just talking to anyone who visited us and explaining about the items we had for sale.

We get a lot of items from programs from all over Africa through programs like Global Mamas, which is a program that helps woman-owned businesses in Africa, thus negating some of the steep gender inequality they face. Many of our products came from Ghana and they were all pretty neat. Some of the bags and little coin purses were made out of recycled water bags (water there isn't bottled, it's bagged), and scraps from the clothing they made went into making pot holders and the like. There were also some adorable puppets and sweet recycled glass figurines. (All of which you can buy through AYO... contact them or me if you're interested!)

So in the end I hear AYO made some money off of the booth, all of which goes to buy things like supplies for our camp. All in all, definitely a good day.


Today -- flyers and Zulu

Annie (another volunteer, one traveling this summer to De Wildt) dropped off some flyers and the like for me this afternoon. After my classes I visited State Street to try and drum up (get it?) a bit of support for our next event, Drumming For Hope. I visited a whole bunch of shops on State and asked them if I could put the flyers up. Some said no, but a lot more than I expected said yes, mostly comprising of locally owned stores. Franchises (I'm looking at you, Chipotle!) turned me down for the most part. Either way, hopefully a few more people show up at what is promising to be a pretty interesting event.

In between doing this I had to run up to Van Hise for a Zulu lesson, though thankfully not literally, as Francis' office is on the fourteenth floor. I soaked up a bit more of the native language, including some grammar, which I think is fascinating. After my lifetime of English and five years of Spanish, to learn a language that has such a radically different grammar is really interesting. I've been looking it up online, too. Hopefully in the next few weeks before we leave I'll get a bit of a handle on the basics. I learned how to say that I'm going to Africa in June: Ngiya eMzantsi ngoJune. And that I'll be returning in July: Ngibuya eMerika ngoJuly. By the way, I think the fact that they spell it "Merika" is pretty awesome. Looks way sweeter.

Hamba kahle! (Go well!)

Vaccinations!

I almost forgot to tell everyone about my fun trip to the travel doctor!

Since I'm a student at the UW, I can get vaccinations at University Health Services. The only good thing about all of the construction on campus is the shiny new buildings that I get to use, one of which houses UHS now.

I made the appointment a few weeks ago and spent the intervening time trying to track down my vaccination records. I have the doctor's information from my more recent shots (for college and middle school), but they didn't have anything about my baby shots! Luckily my mom kept track of all of my vaccinations (what a good parent), so I was able to answer all of the questions with reasonable certainty.

I met with the travel doctor on April 3rd. I think the UW does a good job in that you have to meet with someone and discuss you trip a bit before they recommend vaccinations. AYO suggests getting up to date on Hepatitis A and B and Typhoid Fever. I was good on Hep. B, and their information turned out to be correct, but it's good to speak with a doctor about this. She also was able to give me perscriptions for two drugs to take with me and recommendations on what activities/things to avoid.

Now, I'm a huge nerd about medicine, so I hope you'll indulge me a bit while I elaborate. My first perscription is for Ciprofloxacin, which treats traveler's diarrhea. This isn't a specific disease, but more a condition caused by travelling to an area you're not used to. Basically, everybody has certain bacteria and organisms living in their body based on where they live and who they come in contact with. These organisms are not harmful, and very often are helpful. When you travel to a very different area such as South Africa, though, you are exposed to different types of nonpathogenic (not-disease-causing) bacteria. They don't hurt you, but your body sometimes takes a bit to adjust to this new "gut flora" (gut organisms), which can cause diarrhea. It probably sounds gross to most people, but it's really interesting to me!

I also got a perscription for Malarone, which is an anti-malarial. A lot of people have the mistaken assumption that there is a vaccine for malaria, which is not the case. Malaria is caused by a parasite, and because parasites are so much more complex than viruses or bacteria, they are much harder to make vaccines for. At this time I don't think there are any vaccines for parasitic diseases (though I could be wrong!). I'm taking a parasitology class this semester, so I've been learning all about this.

Lastly, the doctor explained some activties to avoid, such as petting any animals (like dogs), for fear of rabies. Also, she warned me against going into any freshwater lakes or rivers (even just wading). This last bit was because of Schistosomiasis, another disease caused by a parasite that can penetrate your intact skin and give you some pretty bad rashes (or worse). Another parasite from my class!

After this discussion the travel doctor sent me over to get my actual vaccines: Hep. A, Typhoid Fever, and polio. This last one was because I was due for a booster shot, not because of any inherent risk of polio in South Africa. I got two in my left arm and one in the right, and the one that hurt the most was the polio, which was subcutaneous. This means that instead of injecting it into muscle, they pull a flap of skin away from your arm and inject it there. Ouch! I have a brand new respect for people who deal with diabetes.

Anyway, I'm sure many of you reading this found this entry to be gross/boring, but let me just say that as a Medical Microbiology and Immunology major, and even though I don't like shots, this was one of the most exciting and interesting parts of the trip yet!

April training

Yesterday we had another meeting for our trip, though it was thankfully shorter because it was on a weekday. We all met around 6 and started out by doing an activity outside, while we still had light and a beautiful spring day to work with. While in Africa we'll teach a lesson on drugs and alcohol and one of our activities features some pretty powerful beer-goggles. They look like huge safety goggles and people wearing them look hilarious because their eyes seem huge and distorted. We each took turns putting them on and being spun around a few times, and then tried to slalom between colored dots on the ground. It was remarkably hard to do! I'm sure we all looked pretty ridiculous, stumbling around. Thankfully Ytevia took off her awesome high heels and wore Rebecca's slippers, otherwise we may have had to end the meeting there with a trip to the hospital.

We also demonstrated another little activity that compares reaction time while "sober" by catching a pen or marker that someone drops into your hand versus "under the influence", by sticking your hand in a bowl of freezing ice water. I was the brave volunteer for this, although I think a lifetime of living in Wisconsin has trained me better than most at functioning with frozen and numb hands.

Our second activity of the night was making "power dolls", which was also a lot of fun. Basically, you write a message to yourself down on a half-sheet of paper (a goal, a reminder of something you've overcome) and then you crumple that paper up into a ball. This is the doll's head. Using some fabric and yarn, you make the body around that. I can see why the kids will enjoy it.

In case you're wondering why a group of grown women were stumbling around with beer goggles and sitting around making dolls, I should mention that all of the activities we'll be doing with the kids at the actual camps we do here and now in Wisconsin. It's a good experience because it's easier to teach and lead an activity when you've done it yourself. Some of it is a bit silly, like making these dolls, but meanwhile we were discussing why we did this and how we were going to present it to kids there. It certainly makes me more comfortable with the prospect of leading these camps.

After that we moved on to some more discussion. We went over some information we'd been given on alcohol and drugs in South Africa. It's interesting to think about because the environment is so different there. Even in Madison walking home while drunk can be dangerous, but in South Africa walking home while inebriated along a dark, narrow road can be much worse. The beer goggle activity may sound silly, but we're hoping it shows these kids how hard it is to walk when you're not fully in control, because they'll be traversing roads where even a little stumble could put you right in the path of a vehicle.

After this was some review on HIV (and I love this topic so much that I'm sure I ended up being very annoying. I kept wanting to answer all of the questions I knew about!) and a discussion on safe sex and healthy relationships. The discussion kind of put us in the roles of the kids we'll be teaching later, in that Rebecca was asking us a lot of questions about what we think healthy relationships are and what to say to someone who is pressuring you into sex or unsafe sex. It's one of those topics that I'm sure we all know pretty well, but it takes some getting used to talking about it. It was a good learning experience because watching Rebecca try to draw more information out of us showed how we can do it for these kids.


I'd just like to mention here that I'm trying to raise money right now for AYO. I've set a rather lofty goal of $1000.00, but I really think that I can reach it. I mean, if I can get 50 people to donate $20 each, I'll get there with no problem... and I know I have at least fifty friends! Even $5 is an awesome step towards reaching my goal. All donations are tax-deductible. This is a new experience for me, because I've always had a problem "selling" things, even when it was for things people loved like Girl Scout Cookies. This is even harder because there's no tangible good, but the cause is so much more important to me that I just have to try.

If you're at all interested in donating any amount of money, you can do so online through my FirstGiving page here. If you don't like donating over the internet you can make a check out to African Youth Outreach and either mail it to me (e-mail me at mariley2@wisc.edu for my address, I don't feel right putting it on the internet!) or you can mail it directly to AYO at

African Youth Outreach
C/O Alexander Kendziorski
406 Sethne Court
Monona, WI 53716
USA

Just mention in the memo line that it's for Megan Riley. Thank you all so much for all of your help, and I hope you keep reading my blog!

My journey so far...

I've started this blog today, March 30th, but I've been working on this trip for months now, and thinking about it for months before that.

Applying

Last summer my friend Ken spent a month in Ingwavuma, South Africa with AYO. Now, as a student of microbiology and one especially fascinated by tropical diseases, I've always had an interest in volunteering in Africa. I've read books by people who spent years of their lives working with people and diseases there, and it has been a dream of mine to do something similar. After talking to Ken and hearing his stories about his trip, not to mention looking at his great pictures, I decided that I would really love to be a part of this group.

I applied in December 2008 and went in for my interview in January, on one of the coldest days of the year. It was my first introduction to the founders of the group, Rebecca and Alex. I was nervous at first, but their relaxed personalities put me at ease. I don't know how they thought my interview went, but it can't have been too bad because a few weeks later I answered a call from Rebecca telling me that I'd be going to Ingwavuma.

Thus began the rollercoaster...

March 8th - First Meeting

Our first face-to-face team meeting was on Sunday, March 8th, which was nearly a huge problem for me. The Thursday before I travelled with a small group from the marching band down to Indianapolis for the women's Big 10 basketball tournament. Everyone I knew and everyone on the trip fully expected a Thursday loss and to be returning on Friday, but the Badgers surprised everyone and pulled out two wins that weekend, extending my stay until Sunday morning. I felt bad, but I was relieved when they lost to Purdue on Saturday in the semifinal, meaning that I'd be home in time for the meeting. It's one of the things we've discovered: trying to coordinate schedules between 8 very different people is a task that borders on impossible, and always absorbs at least a half an hour of our meetings.

Even running on barely three hours of sleep, the meeting was fantastic. I met the rest of the volunteers, three of whom would be travelling with me to Ingwavuma (Marilee, Machiko, and Jessy) and the four who would be going to De Wildt (Annie, Marsha, Ytevia, and Mary). I was surprised that we were all women, and at the large age disparity in the group, but they are great people and we all got along right away.

After the traditional opening icebreaking exercise, we also discussed travel arrangements and spent an hour learning Zulu, which I loved. Igama lami nguMegan (My name is Megan). I'm sure I butcher it when I try to speak, and I'll probably be hopelessly lost in trying to understand them there, but I like to at least try to learn the local language when I travel.

March 29th - HIV education

Yesterday we had our second meeting and it went just as wonderfully as the last. Because of a mix-up with my friend I ended up taking a cab there, but it just demonstrated to me how great all of my teammates are, because as soon as they heard they all insisted that I could call them if I ever needed a ride again. As it turned out, Marilee and I live only a few blocks from each other, so we'll probably be carpooling.

The main topic of the meeting yesterday was learning about HIV and AIDS, which I loved. Much of it I knew, because of my microbiology classes, but it was all fascinating to me. The best parts were learning about the common myths about the disease, because it really emphasized how much work we had ahead of us. Some of the myths, such as that "having sex with a virgin will cure you of HIV/AIDS" or that "condoms or antiretroviral drugs cause/spread HIV/AIDS" may seem laughable to us, but are dangerously pervasive in the area. Obviously, we aren't going to be able to make everyone listen to and learn from us, but I'm anxious to try.

The Ingwavuma group also had another hour of Zulu instruction, while the De Wildt team started learning Tswana. Ngihlala eMadison (I live in Madison). We had a really tough time with the "hl" consanant, which is like trying to make the "sh" sound through your molars... or something. It's very tough to explain.

As it's getting late and this post is getting long, I'll leave you all with this link to the donation page for AYO. We have a huge task ahead of us, and every little bit that people can contribute helps immensely. If you choose to donate, feel free to send AYO an e-mail saying that it was on my behalf, or using my donation page here.

About the trip and about me

Sanibonani!

Or, as you may understand it: hi, everybody!

My name is Megan Riley. I am 21 years old and a junior at the University of Wisconsin-Madison, where I am majoring in Medical Microbiology and Immunology with a certificate in Computer Sciences. I am a member of the marching band, where I play clarinet and am better known by my nickname, Crayola (hence the web address of this blog!). Right now I am looking to pursue a career in public health, though I'm still trying to work out the specifics.

This will be the blog I use to document my trip to South Africa with the wonderful group African Youth Outreach. For those of you just stumbling upon this, they are a nonprofit, non-governmental, secular organization based out of Madison, Wisconsin who work to provide HIV education to at-risk children in South Africa. Their efforts began at Ingwavuma Orphan Care, in the KwaZulu-Natal region of South Africa (it's in the eastern part of the country). Recently, they've begun expanding their operation to helping orphans at the De Wildt Cheetah and Wildlife Trust, which is nearer Johannesburg.

Through AYO, I will be travelling this summer to Ingwavuma to help their efforts to educate children of many ages about the dangers of HIV/AIDS, attempt to dispell the myths that surround the disease, and probably learn a lot about myself in the process. We'll leave America on June 24th and I'll be staying in Africa for 3 weeks.

You are probably wondering why I am starting this blog now, with nearly 3 months before I even set foot in South Africa... Well, preparing for a trip like this takes a lot of time and effort, more than the average person would ever imagine. I want to not just describe the wonderful and rewarding work that we'll be doing in Africa, but also the hours of learning and preparation that we're doing here in Wisconsin.

I hope you enjoy!